Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage Bicycle Camping Trip.

Prologue.
Kukai(空海) is called Kobo Daishi(弘法大師). This is because Emperor Daigo(醍醐天皇) awarded the posthumous title, "Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師)" to Kukai(空海) after Kukai's death.
That was the year 921 AD.(Kukai(空海) died in 835 AD)

"Shikoku Pilgrimage88" .
Let's think of this 88.

It is said that all 88 sanctuaries in Shikoku are related to Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師).
It is said that he selected 88 temples and created 88 sacred sites in Shikoku.

But,It's just only a legend.
It's an unverifiable legend.

There is no firm evidence that Kukai(空海) made a "Shikoku Pilgrimage 88 temples".
Nobody knows who began to say such a thing "Kukai(空海) started training Shikoku pilgrimage 88 places" too.

It's not well understood that the clear connection between "Shikoku-Pilgrimage" and "Kukai(空海)" anyways.

Firstly, from the end of the ancient period to the beginning of the Middle Ages, there were many sacred sites in Shikoku beach(海浜) and Satoyama(里山)(It's forest near populated area).
In this sanctuary.A small number of austerities(修行者)were scattered here and there and were training.

A shrine or ancestral hall was built in this sanctuary, and Buddhas and gods with relationships were welcomed.

In the eighth century, a superstar named Kukai(空海) was born in this world. (774.3.21 to 835.4.22)
In ancient human society.All the human value were judged on the status.
The necessary conditions of the great man defined by people was that his status was high.
Human value has been decided by that social position and the goodness of the pedigree.
Kukai(空海) was born as a member of high status clan in Sanuki(讃岐).

Kukai entered the university of the Heian-capital(current Kyoto) at the age of 18, and left school half-way immediately, and He was living together with the vagabond, fugitives, and the self-priests etc until 31-year-old.

It is said that Kukai(空海) was doing Buddhist training during this period, in Awa(阿波),Tosa(土佐) etc.
And When Kukai(空海) was 31years old, suddenly he went to Heiankyo平安京(current Kyoto), learned the Dainichi-kyou(大日経), and He joined to a member of the Kentoushi(遣唐使).
It is a mystery how he was able to do such a thing.

Kukai travels to Tang as a member of the Japanese envoy to the Tang Dynasty. In that country,there was Keika(恵果), the highest authority in the Chinese Esoteric Buddhism world.

Kentoushi(遣唐使)=Japanese missions to Tang China.
To interact with Tang China gathering overseas situation, gathering China's advanced technology,and gathering Buddhist scriptures.
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Kukai arrived in Tang after hardships as a member of the envoy to Tang Dynasty. Aug 10, 804.
Kukai's ship drifted ashore in Tang's Fuzhou Changxi Country.

Keika was waiting for Kukai in Chang'an.
Keika predicted that Kukai would come from the eastern country, and was waiting for Kukai's arrival to give him all of the esoteric Buddhism he had received.
Kukai visited Keika on June 12, 805. Keika gave everything to Kukai and died after giving it. 6 months during this time.
After seeing Keika's burial, Kukai left Chang'an in mid-to-late February.
But how was Kukai able to come back? .
Kukai's study abroad was a long-term rule of 20 years. It was planned that he would be able to return to his home country 20 years later on the next envoy to the Tang Dynasty. However, this time he was able to return to　country . why? .
A historic event happened at this time.
The retired emperor Junsou died suddenly in January.
In 806, Japan dispatched a special envoy to Tang Dynasty to express condolences on this important event.
A once-in-a-lifetime opportunity has arrived. Kukai was able to return home on this temporary envoy ship.
If Kukai hadn't returned home at this time, he wouldn't have been able to return home even if he died. Thirty years later, the ship of the 17th envoy to Tang Dynasty set sail. However, It was wrecked on the way and turned back. (It was in 836, the year after Kukai died.) The following year, the 18th dispatch of the envoy to Tang Dynasty left Japan. The ship was wrecked and disappeared into the sea. Furthermore, the 19th envoy to the Tang Dynasty in 894 was cancelled, and after that, the envoy to the Tang Dynasty was permanently abolished.
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After returning Japan, Kukai(空海)got to be familiar to the Emperor and the people as a extraordinary excellent high priest.
He was also tolerant to authorities.
Kukai(空海) accepted other Buddhism and assimilated it in his religion..
In that way the excellence of Kukai's knowledge and Esoteric Buddhist teachings was advertised to the world.
Kukai(空海) went to the provinces casually and easily. He also went to Hakone(箱根) and Izusan(伊豆山). He also visited Kanto and Tohoku.
Kukai(空海) built the temples and He completed the Mannou Pond(満濃池).
Kukai gained the reputation of the Emperor and the nobility,won also public confidence. and He started activitied freely.
Kukai(空海) built a temple at Koyasan(高野山) in Kii-country(紀伊国).He did not stay long time in Touji(東寺) or Takaosanji (高雄山寺).and he did not stay long time anywhere.
He also stepped foot into the place called Reizan(霊山) of remote areas.
Kukai(空海) also went to Nikko Mountain(日光山),went to Hakone and Izu(伊豆).
These Kukai's behavior had build up the legendary factors of "doing on pilgrimages to various temples(巡歴)" , "the construction of the temple" related to Kukai(空海).

And, in the eleventh century the faith activities of Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師) became flourish. Because Kukai(空海) was born in Sanuki(讃岐) and studied in Shikoku in early childhood Shikoku(四国) began to occupy an important position in faith.

Also, as a result of Hijiri's activities, the legend of(空海) grew even bigger.
Especially among them, the huge virtual image of Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師) had gradually completed by the activity of Koya-Hijiri(高野聖) which had been frequently performed.

Shikoku-88-temples are ,almost intentionally, believed to be made by Kobo-Daishi.
But,There is also the fact that the temple where the excellent holy name familiar to people remained is quietly incorporated into "Holy Land of the Daishi".

The legendary Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師) statue is very similar to figure of of the famous or anonymous Hijiri more than the real image of Kukai(空海).
Kobo-Daishi legend can only be said to have been expressed with the fictional character borrowed.

Because, there are people's hardship against the background.Various difficulties constantly were raiding a closed-in village.
Dry weather ・ cold ・ famine ・ sickness etc.
Village folk were potentially waiting for somebody to come from the outside and kind enough save the village from devastation.
In that sense,Kobo-Daishi was exactly a savior.

People felt the visitor that was a savior (Kobo-Daishi) and was seeking a visit.

In this way, Based on "Such this Shikoku Pilgrimage", The activities of various saints and the faith of Kobo Daishi overlaped In a chain,Shikoku Pilgrimage gradually established.

However, the era have not come yet until a lot of people go out to Shikoku Pilgrimage.
There was the reason yet why ordinary people could not go to Shikoku Pilgrimage.

In the Middle Ages, Temples and shrines that owns the manor considered try to earn an income not only from"Za(座)" but also "Sekisen(関銭)".

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“Za(座)” is a trade association of commerce and industry established in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. Under the protection of kuge (court nobles) and temples and shrines, the right to monopolize business was recognized.

Shrines and temples tried to obtain not only income from the "Za(座)" but also the toll tax of the land(Sekisen(関銭))..
Many "checkpoints" were placed to impose tolls on passers-by.

Hijiri preaches the teachings of Buddhism and guides people to the path of Buddhism. This is called "Shoudou(唱導)".

The act of soliciting donations for the construction and repair of temples, shrines, and Buddhist statues is called 'Kanjin(勧進)'.

For Hijiri(=A Buddhist monk who traveled around the world.) .this act is a painful and eternal act that he may die in a strange country, a strange land.

In comparison, these profit-making activities of large temples with manors were a no-risk, high-return business model that allowed them to earn a lot of money without much effort.
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(座)= a trade association by commercial and industrialists and entertainers who existed from the Heian period until the Warring States period.
Sekisen(関銭) = a toll tax set at major points of transportation in medieval Japan.
Shikoku-Yuukou(四国遊行)=Walking around Shikoku for training
Kanjin=(勧進)Holy preaching Buddhism and gathering donations for temples and shrines.
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The temple shrine got money forcibly, taking advantage of his own advantageous position.
Temple's all member collected money in a way of unconcerned about the ugliness of one's action.
In such a situation, people's movement was difficult.
The economy stagnated.People were not easy even to live.
Only the temples and the trade associations of commerce and the nobles were living in comfort.

And war broke out frequently.
The farm field was trampled.
Looting and robbery by soldiers happened like every day.And famine / disaster struck like every year.

Epidemic disease prevailed.Besides,The annual rice tax pay is collected without any mercy.

There were too many upper side people who get and consume annual rice tax.

Royal family ・ a court noble ・ public serva ・ samurai ・ temple shrine religious ・ priest, god military ・ regional ruling ・ regional official etc.
These nonproductive hierarchies were plundering farmer's taxes.

Nobunaga appeared at this timing.
Nobunaga(信長) destroyed these bad habits and implemented Chigyousei(知行制).
Chigyousei(知行制)= A method of administration in which a daimyo gives his vassals the right to decide land tax, the right to collect tax, jurisdiction, etc., and allows the vassals to control the territory and farmers.

These bad habits that had been practiced until then were abolished in Nobunaga's territory.
Sekisho(関所) was also abolished.
People became free to move and free to do business.

In this way the policy of Nobunaga and Hideyoshi(秀吉) who did not like the Gods and the Buddha became an ironical result that contributed to the shrine and temple visit of people.

After that.
next ruler Tokugawa.
The Tokugawa(徳川) regime, which inherited the nationwide unification, established laws for the Daimyo(大名), the court and the temple companies, respectively, and made various kinds of tightening controls.

At the same time, the Tokugawa government also restricted freedom of vocational selection for farmers,regulation of Movement of farmers,restricted daily life to detail.

However, funds used for military affairs have became to use for peaceful use, and even though regulation has been strengthened, the economy has continued to develop.
This is not an accurate statistic but an estimate, but the population of Japan, which was 12 million in 1600, has increased to 30 million around 1700.

However even though the degree of faith became thick and economically rich,
it did not mean that everybody came to be able to do Shikoku Pilgrimage.
It did not go easy.
Sightseeing and playing can not be tolerated at all during the trip.
People have to keep walking for dozens of days while doing penance to wear away the body,wear out his nerves.

In 1653, Chouzen(澄禅)-monk(修行僧) who was a professional in the pilgrimage, did a pilgrimage.
Chouzen(澄禅) crossed the sea and went to Tokushima and began to go around from the 17th Idoji temple(井戸寺). After visiting up to No.88(大窪寺),
He pilgrimaged the rest temple,He visited the1st temple Ryouzenji(霊山寺) and finished the pilgrimage.
It was a pilgrimage of continuous of tremendous hardship.
He managed to achieve the pilgrimage at the die on the verge and He left a precious diary.
It took 91 days.
Efficiency is good if It start from Idoji(井戸寺). He said so.

Chouzen is a professional to practice Buddhist asceticisms.
Each temple made him a good night's sleep as a bond between same professional but the general public will not be dealt that way.
Neither temples nor private houses will lend an inn for ordinary people.

There is no word 88 in the diary of Chouzen,but among the temples taken up, all the current 88 temples are included.

Approximately 40 years after Chouzen's (澄禅)"Shikoku Pilgrim Diary", Shikoku Buddhist Templeguidebook was continuously published three books.

Unlike Chouzen's "Shikoku Pilgrim Diary", these three volumes were published in large quantities against unspecified number of readers.
In other words, the Shikoku Pilgrimage which only certain people had done has grown into a thing that the general public participates a lot in the last 40 years.
It means that a big change has occurred in Shikoku Pilgrimage.
The number of temples in this book is 93 temples, yet the number 88 still does not come out.

Alternatively, already"eighty-eight" may be used meaning "a lot", but I do not know.
People who made this books are "Shinnen(真念)" and "Jakuhon(寂本)"

The Shinnen(真念) already had a pilgrimage experience of 20 or more times.
In addition, the Shinnen(真念) set up roads, set up signs, and improved the accommodation.
Although the printing and publication of the Shinnen(真念) took a huge amount of money, many sponsors participated.

Shinnen 's book (真念),"Shikoku-Henromichi-Shinan(四国遍路道指南)" was the number one selling book out of those 3 books.
This book became a long seller throughout the Edo period. Shinan(指南)=guide book
About Shikoku 88 places, for the first time a guidebook of "Shinnen(真念)・Jakuhon(寂本)" was published.
At last,
From around this time, ordinary people began to start the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

I referred to Wakako Yamamoto's "Shikoku Pilgrimage People's History".
(『四国遍路の民衆史』-山本和加子).

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I tried to find out about the history of the Shikoku pilgrimage of ordinary people.
I researched and wrote how the 88 stamp rally spread to the general public.

Efficiency is good if It start from Idoji(井戸寺). Chouzen(澄禅) said so.
I will start from 83rd Ichinomiya Temple.
This is the beginning of the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage.

A temple is a place where Buddhist monks live, study and practice Buddhist doctrines.
"Shikoku 88 temples" is said to be a general term for the 88 temples in Shikoku that are related to Kukai.
Traditional Buddhism in Japan consists of 13 sects and 56 minor sects. There are 13 sects: Hosso, Risshu, Kegon, Shingon, Tendai, Nichiren, Jodo, Jodo Shinshu, Yuzu Nenbutsu, Ji, Rinzai, Soto, and Obaku.
Shingon Esoteric Buddhism was established by Kukai in the early Heian period. The Shingon sect is a sect that follows this teaching.
Even though there are 88 temples related to Kukai, not all 88 temples belong to the Shingon sect.
Of the 88 temples, there are seven that are not of the Shingon sect.
Rinzai sect: Fujiidera (No. 11), Rinzai sect.Sekkeiji (No. 33)
Soto sect. Kokubunji(No. 15)
Tendai sect: Meisekiji (No.43), Tendai sect.Negoroji(No.82), Tendai sect.Kanonji (No.87),Jishu sect Shingon sect: Gosho ji (No.78).

1st Day Henro

By airplane, from Haneda to Takamatsu Airport.

I started from the 83rd temple.

I will write about the slope.
The gear is a front wheel 30 × rear wheel 27.Road bike, tire 700C × 28, with front and rear carriers.

★(焼山寺)Shouzanji Slope………… I got a luggage placed at the Sudachi-kan inn at the end of the street and I went up.There is no place to push. On a road bike, it is not a slope that will be a problem so much.

★(鶴林寺)Slope of Kakurinji…………I got up with my baggage loaded. I pressed it many times and pushed further just before the temple.

★(太龍寺)Slope of Taryuuji…………I spent a lot of time grasping the condition of this slope.There is no record of this slope.The record of the street view is until the entrance of the slope.
I put my baggage on the roadside and climbed.
Here is a steep slope.
It is as steep as the approach of Mitake-san in Okutama.

★(神峯寺)Slope of Kounomineji…………For slopes,We have to consider the slope and length, the condition of the road surface and the traffic volume.
In the case of Taiyuji, people who come by car almost ride the ropeway, so traffic volume is small.

However, here (the slope of Kounomineji) there are only a roadway and a sidewalk along that roadway, so because a lot of cars will pass.
I think it is best to arrive at the temple before a big bus arrives, early in the morning.
I left my luggage in a souvenir shop and lightened my bicycle and went up.

★(横峰寺)Slope of Yokomineji…………I deposited my luggage to the hotel and went up.

★(三角寺)Slope of Sankakuji…………The steep slope is until you pass through the village,Once you enter the forest road, it is almost flatland.

★(雲辺寺)Slope of Unpenji…………The distance is long, but the gradient is not steep.

★(屋島寺)Slope of Yashimaji…………Motorcycles under 125 cc can not pass through a car exclusive road. Of course bicycles are also not permitted. I will walk.

★(八栗寺)Slope of Yaguriji…………As a result of choosing between using a cable car or using an ordinary road, of course, I bicycled the general road.
I almost pushed it up.

★(出釈迦寺)Inner sanctury of Shusshakaji…………I pressed almost all of them. I pressed it up and pushed it down.

That is the report of the slope. Then please have a look from the first day.・・

・・・ 1st Day Henro

Cycling Toppage.