Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage Bicycle Camping
Trip.
A bicycle camping trp around the 88 temples
in Shikoku.
Shikoku is known for its pilgrimage which
has 88 temples.
Shikoku is the smallest of the four major
island of Japan.
Those are Kagawa,Ehime,Kouch and Tokushima.
I tried to make a pilgrimage to 88 temples
in Shikoku while camping on my bicycle. Most
of the temples included in "Shikoku
88" are located on top of mountains.
I climbed every hill and mountain by bike
or on foot.I didn't use the ropeway.
Slope, I climbed the slope by bicycle.
I climbed a lot of hills on this trip. I
rode my bike even on rainy days. I had a
lot of luggage and had a hard time carrying
it.
I tried to sleep in tents as much as possible.。
Let's see the main slopes of 88 temples.
焼山寺(Shouzan-ji)、鶴林寺(Kakurin-ji)、太龍寺(Tairyuu-ji)、神峯寺(Kounomine-ji)、横峰寺(Yokomine-ji)、雲辺寺(Unpen-ji)
I went to Shikoku with my plan to be climbing
all hills with my own feet.
The total distance 1570 km. I stayed at a
tent accommodation, business hotel, inn.
This is a record of the pilgrimage for 21
days.
I received kindness from various people.
It was a pleasant pilgrimage.
View from the map ... Click the number on the map and it will
jump to that page.
Prologue.
Kukai(空海) is called Kobo Daishi(弘法大師).
This is because Emperor Daigo(醍醐天皇) awarded
the posthumous title, "Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師)"
to Kukai(空海) after Kukai's death.
That was the year 921 AD.(Kukai(空海) died
in 835 AD)
"Shikoku Pilgrimage88" .
Let's think of this 88.
It is said that all 88 sanctuaries in Shikoku
are related to Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師).
It is said that Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師) has
also connected the 88 places and made the
whole Shikoku sanctuary.
But,It's just only a legend.
It's an unverifiable legend.
There is no firm evidence that Kukai(空海)
made a "Shikoku Pilgrimage 88 temples".
Nobody knows who began to say such a thing
"Kukai(空海) started training Shikoku
pilgrimage 88 places" too.
It's not well understood that the clear connection
between "Shikoku-Pilgrimage" and
"Kukai(空海)" anyways.
Firstly, from the end of the ancient period
to the beginning of the Middle Ages, there
were many sacred sites in Shikoku beach(海浜)
and Satoyama(里山)(It's forest near populated
area).
In this sanctuary.A small number of austerities(修行者)were
scattered here and there and were training.
A shrine or ancestral hall was built in this
sanctuary, and Buddhas and gods with relationships
were welcomed.
In the eighth century, a superstar named
Kukai(空海) was born in this world. (774.3.21
to 835.4.22)
In ancient human society.All the human value
were judged on the status.
The necessary conditions of the great man
defined by people was that his status was
high.
Human value has been decided by that social
position and the goodness of the pedigree.
Kukai(空海) was born as a member of high
status clan in Sanuki(讃岐).
Kukai entered the university of the Heian-capital(current
Kyoto) at the age of 18, and left school
half-way immediately, and He was living together
with the vagabond, fugitives, and the self-priests
etc until 31-year-old.
It is said that Kukai(空海) was doing Buddhist
training during this period, in Awa(阿波),Tosa(土佐)
etc.
And When Kukai(空海) was 31years old, suddenly
he went to Heiankyo平安京(current Kyoto),
learned the Dainichi-kyou(大日経), and He
joined to a member of the Kentoushi(遣唐使).
It is a mystery how he was able to do such
a thing.
Kukai travels to Tang as a member of the
Japanese envoy to the Tang Dynasty. In that
country,there was Keika(恵果), the highest
authority in the Chinese Esoteric Buddhism
world.
Kentoushi(遣唐使)=Japanese missions to Tang
China.
To interact with Tang China gathering overseas
situation, gathering China's advanced technology,and
gathering Buddhist scriptures.
-------------------
Kukai arrived in Tang after hardships as
a member of the envoy to Tang Dynasty. Aug
10, 804.
Kukai's ship drifted ashore in Tang's Fuzhou
Changxi Country.
Keika was waiting for Kukai in Chang'an.
Keika predicted that Kukai would come from
the eastern country, and was waiting for
Kukai's arrival to give him all of the esoteric
Buddhism he had received.
Kukai visited Keika on June 12, 805. Keika
gave everything to Kukai and died after giving
it. 6 months during this time.
After seeing Keika's burial, Kukai left Chang'an
in mid-to-late February.
But how was Kukai able to come back? .
Kukai's study abroad was a long-term rule
of 20 years. It was planned that he would
be able to return to his home country 20
years later on the next envoy to the Tang
Dynasty. However, this time he was able to
return to country . why? .
A historic event happened at this time.
The retired emperor Junsou died suddenly
in January.
In 806, Japan dispatched a special envoy
to Tang Dynasty to express condolences on
this important event.
A once-in-a-lifetime opportunity has arrived.
Kukai was able to return home on this temporary
envoy ship.
If Kukai hadn't returned home at this time,
he wouldn't have been able to return home
even if he died. Thirty years later, the
ship of the 17th envoy to Tang Dynasty set
sail. However, It was wrecked on the way
and turned back. (It was in 836, the year
after Kukai died.) The following year, the
18th dispatch of the envoy to Tang Dynasty
left Japan. The ship was wrecked and disappeared
into the sea. Furthermore, the 19th envoy
to the Tang Dynasty in 894 was cancelled,
and after that, the envoy to the Tang Dynasty
was permanently abolished.
--------------------------
After returning Japan, Kukai(空海)got to
be familiar to the Emperor and the people
as a extraordinary excellent high priest.
He was also tolerant to authorities.
Kukai(空海) accepted other Buddhism and assimilated
it in his religion..
In that way the excellence of Kukai's knowledge
and Esoteric Buddhist teachings was advertised
to the world.
Kukai(空海) went to the provinces casually
and easily. He also went to Hakone(箱根)
and Izusan(伊豆山). He also visited Kanto
and Tohoku.
Kukai(空海) built the temples and He completed
the Mannou Pond(満濃池).
Kukai gained the reputation of the Emperor
and the nobility,won also public confidence.
and He started activitied freely.
Kukai(空海) built a temple at Koyasan(高野山)
in Kii-country(紀伊国).He did not stay long
time in Touji(東寺) or Takaosanji (高雄山寺).and
he did not stay long time anywhere.
He also stepped foot into the place called
Reizan(霊山) of remote areas.
Kukai(空海) also went to Nikko Mountain(日光山),went
to Hakone and Izu(伊豆).
These Kukai's behavior had build up the legendary
factors of "doing on pilgrimages to
various temples(巡歴)" , "the construction
of the temple" related to Kukai(空海).
And, in the eleventh century the faith activities
of Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師) became flourish.
Because Kukai(空海) was born in Sanuki(讃岐)
and studied in Shikoku in early childhood
Shikoku(四国) began to occupy an important
position in faith.
Also, as a result of Hijiri's activities,
the legend of(空海) grew even bigger.
Especially among them, the huge virtual image
of Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師) had gradually completed
by the activity of Koya-Hijiri(高野聖) which
had been frequently performed.
Shikoku-88-temples are ,almost intentionally,
believed to be made by Kobo-Daishi.
But,There is also the fact that the temple
where the excellent holy name familiar to
people remained is quietly incorporated into
"Holy Land of the Daishi".
The legendary Kobo-Daishi(弘法大師) statue
is very similar to figure of of the famous
or anonymous Hijiri more than the real image
of Kukai(空海).
Kobo-Daishi legend can only be said to have
been expressed with the fictional character
borrowed.
Because, there are people's hardship against
the background.Various difficulties constantly
were raiding a closed-in village.
Dry weather ・ cold ・ famine ・ sickness
etc.
Village folk were potentially waiting for
somebody to come from the outside and kind
enough save the village from devastation.
In that sense,Kobo-Daishi was exactly a savior.
People felt the visitor that was a savior
(Kobo-Daishi) and was seeking a visit.
In this way, Based on "Such this Shikoku
Pilgrimage", The activities of various
saints and the faith of Kobo Daishi overlaped
In a chain,Shikoku Pilgrimage gradually established.
However, the era have not come yet until
a lot of people go out to Shikoku Pilgrimage.
There was the reason yet why ordinary people
could not go to Shikoku Pilgrimage.
In the Middle Ages, Temples and shrines that
owns the manor considered try to earn an
income not only from"Za(座)" but
also "Sekisen(関銭)".
-------
“Za(座)” is a trade association of commerce
and industry established in the Kamakura
and Muromachi periods. Under the protection
of kuge (court nobles) and temples and shrines,
the right to monopolize business was recognized.
Shrines and temples tried to obtain not only
income from the "Za(座)" but also
the toll tax of the land(Sekisen(関銭))..
Many "checkpoints" were placed
to impose tolls on passers-by.
Hijiri preaches the teachings of Buddhism
and guides people to the path of Buddhism.
This is called "Shoudou(唱導)".
The act of soliciting donations for the construction
and repair of temples, shrines, and Buddhist
statues is called 'Kanjin(勧進)'.
For Hijiri(=A Buddhist monk who traveled
around the world.) .this act is a painful
and eternal act that he may die in a strange
country, a strange land.
In comparison, these profit-making activities
of large temples with manors were a no-risk,
high-return business model that allowed them
to earn a lot of money without much effort.
------------------------------------
(座)= a trade association by commercial and
industrialists and entertainers who existed
from the Heian period until the Warring States
period.
Sekisen(関銭) = a toll tax set at major points
of transportation in medieval Japan.
Shikoku-Yuukou(四国遊行)=Walking around Shikoku
for training
Kanjin=(勧進)Holy preaching Buddhism and
gathering donations for temples and shrines.
----------------
The temple shrine got money forcibly, taking
advantage of his own advantageous position.
Temple's all member collected money in a
way of unconcerned about the ugliness of
one's action.
In such a situation, people's movement was
difficult.
The economy stagnated.People were not easy
even to live.
Only the temples and the trade associations
of commerce and the nobles were living in
comfort.
And war broke out frequently.
The farm field was trampled.
Looting and robbery by soldiers happened
like every day.And famine / disaster struck
like every year.
Epidemic disease prevailed.Besides,The annual
rice tax pay is collected without any mercy.
There were too many upper side people who
get and consume annual rice tax.
Royal family ・ a court noble ・ public serva
・ samurai ・ temple shrine religious ・
priest, god military ・ regional ruling ・
regional official etc.
These nonproductive hierarchies were plundering
farmer's taxes.
Nobunaga appeared at this timing.
Nobunaga(信長) destroyed these bad habits
and implemented Chigyousei(知行制).
Chigyousei(知行制)= A method of administration
in which a daimyo gives his vassals the right
to decide land tax, the right to collect
tax, jurisdiction, etc., and allows the vassals
to control the territory and farmers.
These bad habits that had been practiced
until then were abolished in Nobunaga's territory.
Sekisho(関所) was also abolished.
People became free to move and free to do
business.
In this way the policy of Nobunaga and Hideyoshi(秀吉)
who did not like the Gods and the Buddha
became an ironical result that contributed
to the shrine and temple visit of people.
After that.
next ruler Tokugawa.
The Tokugawa(徳川) regime, which inherited
the nationwide unification, established laws
for the Daimyo(大名), the court and the temple
companies, respectively, and made various
kinds of tightening controls.
At the same time, the Tokugawa government
also restricted freedom of vocational selection
for farmers,regulation of Movement of farmers,restricted
daily life to detail.
However, funds used for military affairs
have became to use for peaceful use, and
even though regulation has been strengthened,
the economy has continued to develop.
This is not an accurate statistic but an
estimate, but the population of Japan, which
was 12 million in 1600, has increased to
30 million around 1700.
However even though the degree of faith became
thick and economically rich,
it did not mean that everybody came to be
able to do Shikoku Pilgrimage.
It did not go easy.
Sightseeing and playing can not be tolerated
at all during the trip.
People have to keep walking for dozens of
days while doing penance to wear away the
body,wear out his nerves.
In 1653, Chouzen(澄禅)-monk(修行僧) who was
a professional in the pilgrimage, did a pilgrimage.
Chouzen(澄禅) crossed the sea and went to
Tokushima and began to go around from the
17th Idoji temple(井戸寺). After visiting
up to No.88(大窪寺),
He pilgrimaged the rest temple,He visited
the1st temple Ryouzenji(霊山寺) and finished
the pilgrimage.
It was a pilgrimage of continuous of tremendous
hardship.
He managed to achieve the pilgrimage at the
die on the verge and He left a precious diary.
It took 91 days.
Efficiency is good if It start from Idoji(井戸寺).
He said so.
Chouzen is a professional to practice Buddhist
asceticisms.
Each temple made him a good night's sleep
as a bond between same professional but the
general public will not be dealt that way.
Neither temples nor private houses will lend
an inn for ordinary people.
There is no word 88 in the diary of Chouzen,but
among the temples taken up, all the current
88 temples are included.
Approximately 40 years after Chouzen's (澄禅)"Shikoku
Pilgrim Diary", Shikoku Buddhist Templeguidebook
was continuously published three books.
Unlike Chouzen's "Shikoku Pilgrim Diary",
these three volumes were published in large
quantities against unspecified number of
readers.
In other words, the Shikoku Pilgrimage which
only certain people had done has grown into
a thing that the general public participates
a lot in the last 40 years.
It means that a big change has occurred in
Shikoku Pilgrimage.
The number of temples in this book is 93
temples, yet the number 88 still does not
come out.
Alternatively, already"eighty-eight"
may be used meaning "a lot", but
I do not know.
People who made this books are "Shinnen(真念)"
and "Jakuhon(寂本)"
The Shinnen(真念) already had a pilgrimage
experience of 20 or more times.
In addition, the Shinnen(真念) set up roads,
set up signs, and improved the accommodation.
Although the printing and publication of
the Shinnen(真念) took a huge amount of money,
many sponsors participated.
Shinnen 's book (真念),"Shikoku-Henromichi-Shinan(四国遍路道指南)"
was the number one selling book out of those
3 books.
This book became a long seller throughout
the Edo period. Shinan(指南)=guide book
About Shikoku 88 places, for the first time
a guidebook of "Shinnen(真念)・Jakuhon(寂本)"
was published.
At last,
From around this time, ordinary people began
to start the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
I referred to Wakako Yamamoto's "Shikoku
Pilgrimage People's History".
(『四国遍路の民衆史』-山本和加子).
===========
I tried to find out about the history of
the Shikoku pilgrimage of ordinary people.
I researched and wrote how the 88 stamp rally
spread to the general public.
Efficiency is good if It start from Idoji(井戸寺).
Chouzen(澄禅) said so.
I will start from 83rd Ichinomiya Temple.
This is the beginning of the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage.
A temple is a place where Buddhist monks
live, study and practice Buddhist doctrines.
"Shikoku 88 temples" is said to
be a general term for the 88 temples in Shikoku
that are related to Kukai.
Traditional Buddhism in Japan consists of
13 sects and 56 minor sects. There are 13
sects: Hosso, Risshu, Kegon, Shingon, Tendai,
Nichiren, Jodo, Jodo Shinshu, Yuzu Nenbutsu,
Ji, Rinzai, Soto, and Obaku.
Shingon Esoteric Buddhism was established
by Kukai in the early Heian period. The Shingon
sect is a sect that follows this teaching.
Even though there are 88 temples related
to Kukai, not all 88 temples belong to the
Shingon sect.
Of the 88 temples, there are seven that are
not of the Shingon sect.
Rinzai sect: Fujiidera (No. 11), Rinzai sect.Sekkeiji
(No. 33)
Soto sect. Kokubunji(No. 15)
Tendai sect: Meisekiji (No.43), Tendai sect.Negoroji(No.82),
Tendai sect.Kanonji (No.87),Jishu sect Shingon
sect: Gosho ji (No.78).
I will write about the slope.
The gear is a front wheel 30 × rear wheel
27.Road bike, tire 700C × 28, with front
and rear carriers.
★(焼山寺)Shouzanji Slope………… I got a luggage placed at the Sudachi-kan
inn at the end of the street and I went up.There
is no place to push. On a road bike, it is
not a slope that will be a problem so much.
★(鶴林寺)Slope of Kakurinji…………I got up with my baggage loaded.
I pressed it many times and pushed further
just before the temple.
★(太龍寺)Slope of Taryuuji…………I spent a lot of time grasping the
condition of this slope.There is no record
of this slope.The record of the street view
is until the entrance of the slope.
I put my baggage on the roadside and climbed.
Here is a steep slope.
It is as steep as the approach of Mitake-san
in Okutama.
★(神峯寺)Slope of Kounomineji…………For slopes,We have to consider the
slope and length, the condition of the road
surface and the traffic volume.
In the case of Taiyuji, people who come by
car almost ride the ropeway, so traffic volume
is small.
However, here (the slope of Kounomineji)
there are only a roadway and a sidewalk along
that roadway, so because a lot of cars will
pass.
I think it is best to arrive at the temple
before a big bus arrives, early in the morning.
I left my luggage in a souvenir shop and
lightened my bicycle and went up.
★(屋島寺)Slope of Yashimaji…………Motorcycles under 125 cc can not
pass through a car exclusive road. Of course
bicycles are also not permitted. I will walk.
★(八栗寺)Slope of Yaguriji…………As a result of choosing between using
a cable car or using an ordinary road, of
course, I bicycled the general road.
I almost pushed it up.
